Lubrication—
Of course, you
need to follow the lubrication
chart on Page 3-4 in TM 9-1015-
250-10. But remember when you
squirt grease in the crank handles
for the traversing, elevation, and
cross leveling assemblies, more
is not better. If you squirt and
squirt grease in the handles, they
can become difficult to turn. Give
the handles a couple of squirts
each and work the handles all the
way in and out to spread the
grease. Do that weekly.
Test the buffer—
If the buffer
binds, the mortar jumps more and
that can hurt accuracy. Pull down
the buffer as far as possible using
the two housing tubes as hand-
holds. Let it go. If the buffer
doesn't smoothly return to its
original position, something is
wrong. Tell your armorer.
Fully screw in the firing pin bushing—
After you take apart the breech to clean it with
dry cleaning solvent, remember to screw in the
firing pin like it says on Page 3-27 when you
put the breech back together:
In the desert, don't
lube all the unpainted
surfaces of the bipod
with GPL, even
though Page 3-2 says
to. Corrosion is not
the problem in the
desert, it's sand. Lube
will attract sand,
which will chew up
the bipod's moving
parts and seals. Wipe
off all lube from the
outside of the bipod
in the desert.
Fully screw in firing pin bushing
Wipe off lube
from unpainted
parts in desert
easy now!
my crank
handles need
just a couple
shots of
grease!
aren’t
you
s’posed
to spring
back in
place?
yeah, but I
got
buffer
problems!
Tighten the bushing hand tight. Then put on the
mortar's socket wrench and give the wrench
handle one hand tap to fully tighten the bush-
ing. If the bushing is loose, it can ride up above
the firing pin. Then the round won't ignite.
PS 628
MAR 05
21
M120/M121 Mortar…
What's
the
Matter
with My
Mortar?
You
may soon be
asking
"What's the matter
with my mortar"
if you
forget M120/M121 mortar
PM that matters.
For instance…
628.20-21(C)
1/25/05
10:17 AM
Page 1
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